Fix your D-Pad (directional pad) once and for all --- with pics!

walletandgromice

walletandgromice

CAGiversary!
Feedback
21 (100%)
Okay, first things first: I find the d-pad on the 360 wireless controller to be a mushy mess. Not everone does and if you don't this thread is not for you.

I've spent the better part of 4 hours trying to figure out how to fix this (also taking apart an xbox S-controller to look at the differences) and the fix isn't sanding alone. I'm pleased to say I've managed to make the d-pad tight as hell and it's improved my Tetris game considerably. :p
My wife also says the pad is noticably better, and will be her new preferred d-pad for the 360 (that horrific MadCatz arcade stick was her old favorite -- it has a pretty good dpad, fwiw)

First things first, why it's not so hot. MS made two small changes from the old Xbox S-controller. 1: The distance between the button membrane (plyable plastic bit that hits the contacts on the circuit board) and the bottom of the d-pad's contact points seems to have shrunk very slightly (2mm?) so the pad can slide back and forth without pressing any buttons. Bad! 2: To fix this MS made the space around the D-button on the top of the shell smaller (if you look at an S-type and the wireless you'll see that the wall around the D-pad is thicker).

These two problems come together in the following way: Sometimes, when you press a direction you can't get the membrane to connect because there isn't enough room in the well. This is where sanding comes in. You sand all the way around the outer part of the well so the d-pad can be moved enough to make contact but you're not done yet. Now the d-pad will slide around even more which is bad.

Apparently, it's OK to sand the black controller as it's all black (thanks Malik112099)
http://www.cheapassgamer.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3607129&postcount=27
But I don't know about sanding a Halo 3 pad just yet...

All we're going to do is add a very thin layer between the membrane and the bottom of the plastic of the d-pad to fill that space.

Also, you don't need a special security screw-driver other than a Torx-9. You can snap the security dot out of the center of the screw heads with a small screwdriver (I did so, mostly by accident).

1: Open the controller (there are lots of pictures on-line) The hardest thing for me was realizing there's a screw under the sticker under the battery pack.

The hidden screw. Twisting this screw driver will probably break the security dot:


This is the membrane of the dpad. Remove it, and everything else


You have to unscrew those small screws and gently push out the clip to get the d-pad off:



The d-pad out of the shell



2: Do the sanding trick. You'll find plenty of tutorials on that, but to be clear you're sanding out the outter ring.

Now you can do your sanding. I used the rough edge of a leatherman. Try not to cut off your hand. Go back in with some fine sandpaper to even it out when done:


The top pad has been sanded notice how much thinner the outer well-wall is.


3: Cut a small piece of pliable plastic the same diameter of the bottom of the d-ring (not counting the two tabs) and punch a hole in the center
so the pivot point that extends out can clear it. For pliable plastic, I used the clear top to a can of nuts.

So...get a top from a can of nuts and trace the circle that's the size of the bottom of the d-pad. Cut it out and punch a hole in the center.


You're going to put the d-pad plastic back in and put your little plastic thing on top of it:



4: Reassemble and enjoy.

Put the membrane back on (on top of the space) and reassemble the controller:


Enjoy!

UPDATE: I decided to make an 'instructable' -- which is an awesome site for this sort of thing, btw. Anyway, the link is here:

http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Fix-the-d-pad-on-the-Xbox-360-control-pad-mor/


update 2: You need to sand...
[quote name='dargis49']Now what does the sanding do?

I just took mine apart and added the thin plastic (took me about 20-30 minutes), and from what I can tell the thing works way better. Up is up and left is left. And the thing clicks with every press.[/quote]
...
[quote name='dargis49']Well, I played some SFII and it works pretty good. Better than it did, but still not great. So I guess sanding would help out a bit. I can see what it does now. The d-pad does hit the contollers housing. So I guess I'm gonna sand it and see how that goes.[/quote]
 
The D-Pad on the 360 controler is terrible. It almost ruins the controler to be honest. Good thing most games don't use the D-par except for maybe weapon changing.

I might need to try this.
 
You need to post a step by step with pics. I am in for modding at least one of mine for arcade games.
Edit: Done and Done! Thanks!
 
I did the sanding trick 2 weeks ago. I started sanding, and then I realized that it would take forever, so I used a razor blade. After working with it for a few minutes, I noticed that I was cutting through the support ring that is below the dpad. I just broke it off, sanded down the inside, and reassembled. It works great now. I can do all of Akira's moves in VF5 now without trouble.

Also, I used a 320 grit sandpaper and sanded down the controller shell, for fun. Mine was worn and shiny, not anymore.
 
My Halo 3 Edition controller's D-Pad is way worse than my other controllers, when I'm playing CoD4 pressing right on the D-Pad is like pressing Up, half the time it puts my night vision googles on. Waiting on pics to see if I have to guts to try it.
 
[quote name='mikkymuffins']Anxiously awaiting pics... can't wait to try this out for VF5[/quote]

just get a stick.

please.

vf5 on a stock pad is just.....eww
 
If you're looking at the top of the controller (how you'd see it normally while playing) it's the whole edge of the d-pad "bucket." If you take your controller apart, you'll see what to do. I had no idea what to sand either after reading the last little tutorial on it, but after pulling the controller apart it was very obvious.
 
Flash is the devil for closeup shots too wallace - great pics nontheless tho. I never even thought about the plastic spacing from a can of nuts tho. Will have to give that one a try! Even without the plastic tho, the difference is noticeable. I didn't use any tools when I did mine tho, just a couple pieces of sandpaper folded over. Coarse grit (low #) to get the plastic out, and a fine grit (high #) to get it smooth again. Had to kind of force the screwdriver into the screws in the grip tho, as my bit was too wide for the holes. No big issue other than cosmetics.
 
Crap. I had a picture w/o flash but then uploaded that one. Oh well.

Yeah, sandpaper just takes more time. Going in fine-grained when I was done after hacking away with the leatherman was certainly needed (it looked like Dr Frakenstien's Controller complete with scars).

After sanding alone, the d-pad is way better about missing presses BUT without some padding in there, you're likely to have the dpad slide around like a floppy fish. With padding it feels clicky (if that makes sense)

[quote name='halfbent']Flash is the devil for closeup shots too wallace - great pics nontheless tho. I never even thought about the plastic spacing from a can of nuts tho. Will have to give that one a try! Even without the plastic tho, the difference is noticeable. I didn't use any tools when I did mine tho, just a couple pieces of sandpaper folded over. Coarse grit (low #) to get the plastic out, and a fine grit (high #) to get it smooth again. Had to kind of force the screwdriver into the screws in the grip tho, as my bit was too wide for the holes. No big issue other than cosmetics.[/quote]
 
[quote name='yukine']Very nice, thanks.

I'll do this when I'm not lazy.[/QUOTE]

same here. Definitely looks like a Christmas break task. Thanks for all the info and pics cause these shitty d-pads are hell to play arcade games.
 
[quote name='LinkinPrime']My Halo 3 Edition controller's D-Pad is way worse than my other controllers, when I'm playing CoD4 pressing right on the D-Pad is like pressing Up, half the time it puts my night vision googles on. Waiting on pics to see if I have to guts to try it.[/quote]
Same exact thing happens to me on both my white and black wireless controllers. I'm glad it's not just me; my thumbs aren't that fat! :lol:
 
Has anybody ever modded a black controller? I just want to make sure it's solid black plastic and it isn't white underneath or something (so sanding it will end up with a white ring around the d-pad).
 
[quote name='SpazX']Has anybody ever modded a black controller? I just want to make sure it's solid black plastic and it isn't white underneath or something (so sanding it will end up with a white ring around the d-pad).[/quote]

it is sold black plastic
 
[quote name='SpazX']Has anybody ever modded a black controller? I just want to make sure it's solid black plastic and it isn't white underneath or something (so sanding it will end up with a white ring around the d-pad).[/quote]

Wow. Good question. I'd imagine it might be all black, but the Halo 3 controller probably isn't green through to the core I'll amend the OP until we have an answer.
 
Would anyone be willing to do this as a paid service? I have a lot of things to do, but I'm absolutely awful with DIY projects and I'd probably just end up destroying the controller in the process. I'd love to test it out though so if any of you are willing to do this for a little bit of extra cash let me know =)
 
I posted a while back on this same topic. For those afraid to take apart their controller, you can take an exacto knife and whittle away half of the thickness while still assembled. It may not look as good, but it is fast and doesn't require you to take the whole thing apart.

Bottom line is, you NEED to do something to your controller if you want a functional D-Pad.
 
[quote name='goomba478']Would anyone be willing to do this as a paid service? I have a lot of things to do, but I'm absolutely awful with DIY projects and I'd probably just end up destroying the controller in the process. I'd love to test it out though so if any of you are willing to do this for a little bit of extra cash let me know =)[/QUOTE]


to me it doesn't look that difficult just a little bit of sanding and cutting out a plastic ring.. i'm sure you could handle it.
 
[quote name='goomba478']Would anyone be willing to do this as a paid service? I have a lot of things to do, but I'm absolutely awful with DIY projects and I'd probably just end up destroying the controller in the process. I'd love to test it out though so if any of you are willing to do this for a little bit of extra cash let me know =)[/quote]
This isn't really a hard fix -- there isn't much to break. Worst case scenario is either you lose something important (worst would be a button, a screw wouldn't be that bad), you strip some screws, or you mangle your controller's appearance during sanding. Okay, wait, I guess you could cut off a finger if you use a knife instead of sandpaper...

Personally I can't do it, as I've already spent waaayyy too much time on this fix myself ;) You should try it. It's pretty easy.

[quote name='ZForce915']I posted a while back on this same topic. For those afraid to take apart their controller, you can take an exacto knife and whittle away half of the thickness while still assembled. It may not look as good, but it is fast and doesn't require you to take the whole thing apart.[/quote]
This will help, but the point of my post is that sanding alone isn't going to fix it 100%. Admittedly, I did use it after sanding alone and found it to be much better, but still pretty far from perfect (still mushy and maybe 95% accurate opposed to the original 80% accuracy of the unmodded pad). The exacto knife on an unopened pad is probably a good way to scar the face of the controller or lop off a finger.

btw: This is gross, but there appeared to be dried blood in one of my controllers when I opened it up. Fortunately I was already cleaning it with alcohol, but I can assure you I'll never buy a used controller from Gamestop again.

[quote name='ZForce915']
Bottom line is, you NEED to do something to your controller if you want a functional D-Pad.[/quote]

Yep. Couldn't agree more.
 
I did the sanding mod on both of my controllers a few weeks ago, very happy with the results. The dpad is pretty loose on one though, and I've been looking for a way to fix it. I'll have to try the soft plastic disc this week.

BTW: I had an awful time trying to find the right Torx wrench to open the controllers. Drove all around looking at hardware stores, checking the web, etc..., but no one had a T8H Torx. Finally found one at Decalgirl. A little pricey, but they shipped it really fast, and it makes the process much simpler.

http://www.decalgirl.com/browse.cfm/4,5062.htm
 
sounds cool, might have to try it, works out, cuz i just got done with a training course for work and they gave us these security bits, so if i didn't have one before, i definately have one now.
 
I guess I'll have to pick up a used controller to try this out on now. Your words of encouragement are very ... well ... encouraging :) That part about the dried blood is a bit freaky, but nothing a little alcohol can't clean I suppose.

By the way, for those of you who are looking for great Torx sets I got a really cheap set on eBay for only about $5 or so and it included all sorts of shapes and sizes for these types of projects. The case was a bit flimsy (broke in shipping) but the screwdrivers were excellent. D-pad mod here I come!

=JJ=
 
Torx screw drivers are very hard to find anywhere other than Sears, and if your sears is a mess you won't find them there either. I actually would advise against buying just a single size torx driver, since whenever you run into a different size torx screw you'll want to be able to get into it without another trip to the store.

A torx bit set won't work in this case because the shaft that the screw head is in is quite long and thin, so your socketed driver won't fit in there.

I have a torx folding key thingamajigger like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-12632-GorillaGrip%C2%AB-Fold-up-T6-T25/dp/B000E7ZLHQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1195660275&sr=8-1

I bought mine from Target for about ~$10 and I've seen them at Home Depot for about the same. Make sure you get one that has T8 and T9 (Just checked and I used a T9). Ones that go down to T6 are awesome because undoubtably you might run into some small electronics that uses them in some point in your life increasing the "value" of this purchase.

A bit weird that the Torx-9 is the size bit that fits, but the security bit is a T8H ... I wonder what the difference in sizing is...

[quote name='goomba478']I guess I'll have to pick up a used controller to try this out on now. Your words of encouragement are very ... well ... encouraging :) That part about the dried blood is a bit freaky, but nothing a little alcohol can't clean I suppose. [/quote]
I'm sure you'll do just fine. Also, don't buy your controller in the shadiest town in a 10 mile radius and you'll be fine ;-)
 
[quote name='walletandgromice']Make sure you get one that has T8 and T9 (Just checked and I used a T9).....A bit weird that the Torx-9 is the size bit that fits, but the security bit is a T8H ...[/QUOTE]

A T8 is the same size as a T8H. The difference is that the security bit version has the center hollowed out so that it can fit over a pin in the center of the screw. That's pretty weird that the T9 worked ok, but I guess stranger things have happened. :)
 
[quote name='bickle']I did the sanding mod on both of my controllers a few weeks ago, very happy with the results. The dpad is pretty loose on one though, and I've been looking for a way to fix it. I'll have to try the soft plastic disc this week.

BTW: I had an awful time trying to find the right Torx wrench to open the controllers. Drove all around looking at hardware stores, checking the web, etc..., but no one had a T8H Torx. Finally found one at Decalgirl. A little pricey, but they shipped it really fast, and it makes the process much simpler.

http://www.decalgirl.com/browse.cfm/4,5062.htm[/QUOTE]

Radio Shack carries a nice little elctronics tool kit as well: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062778&cp=&sr=1&origkw=kronus+20+piece&kw=kronus+20+piece&parentPage=search

It has Torx 6-10 as well as several other types of bits, including phillips head screw bits that are perfect for working on laptops and such.
 
Now what does the sanding do?

I just took mine apart and added the thin plastic (took me about 20-30 minutes), and from what I can tell the thing works way better. Up is up and left is left. And the thing clicks with every press.
 
[quote name='dargis49']Now what does the sanding do?

I just took mine apart and added the thin plastic (took me about 20-30 minutes), and from what I can tell the thing works way better. Up is up and left is left. And the thing clicks with every press.[/quote]

Oh, snap! That would be amazing if reliable. The idea of sanding is to ensure that the d-pad has enough travel so it can actually be pressed in the direction enough to push down on the membrane. It's true that with the plastic spacer you need a little less travel but I had thought from looking at it, you'd need to sand in order to ensure the pad moved enough to depress the buttons 100% of the time, but maybe not.

If what you report is true, then I think many more people will do this mod, as it involves virtually no risk what-so-ever (short of voiding your warranty)
 
I'll play around with it a little more, but it has worked 100% of the time so far. I really didn't use my D-Pad too often. Because it sucked obviously, and it would always go left or right when I was pressing up or down. The thin plastic fixes that. So that totally works for a quick easy fix. Kudos for coming up with that. I'll try some VF5 (Demo) and Street Fighter to see how well it does on those two games.

I'll post back here if I have any instances where it doesnt quite work. But, like I said, so far so good.
 
Well, I played some SFII and it works pretty good. Better than it did, but still not great. So I guess sanding would help out a bit. I can see what it does now. The d-pad does hit the contollers housing. So I guess I'm gonna sand it and see how that goes.
 
[quote name='dargis49']Well, I played some SFII and it works pretty good. Better than it did, but still not great. So I guess sanding would help out a bit. I can see what it does now. The d-pad does hit the contollers housing. So I guess I'm gonna sand it and see how that goes.[/quote]

Thanks for the update and good luck with the sanding!
 
it also appears that the d pad is different from the white controller and the black controller. When I was playing the "DDR" section of the simpsoin game, the timing is defiantly different with the black controller.
 
I am trying to fix my 360 controller. I bought a set of star allen wrenches because those are the screws holding my controller together. I noticed when I went to use the tools on the screws that the screws had a stud sticking out of the center of the screw head preventing me from inserting the allen wrench into the head. Does anyone know where I can pick up the tool I need or a way to remove these screws?:whistle2:k
 
Sega needs to get with Microsoft and release the 2nd generation Saturn pads for the 360 like they did with the PS2, those things are great.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
bread's done
Back
Top