[quote name='schultzed'][quote name='Engineer_J'][quote name='oper00']I know I'm a "newb" and it's your choice to read my advice or not but I have found out the strength and weaknesses to the TRU coupon (also, for those who are lazy to read back the previous discussions, I believe this completely summarizes how this deal works in detail)
First off, printed coupons being accepted are YMMV, no exceptions. If it doesn't work 100%, then it's not 100% workable for everyone else. If it works for you every time with no problems, then props to you. But it's still YMMV with everyone else, so don't say anything else otherwise.
If you want a realistic coupon as possible, I'd print it off some glossy paper in color by resizing the coupon to 3 inches long and 2 inches tall. You can do this at Kinko's for 60 cents a sheet (which will get you like 8-10 coupons a sheet, more than enough for anyone alone). The coupon may scan, but I think 80% it won't. Just tell them to punch in the SKU number at the top of the UPC barcode and press 'F1' and not enter (or else the coupon won't go through).
Now for the problem for everyone that's not getting the coupon to work in the way they want it to. I've noticed that some green tag games I've bought didn't get the coupon applied to. The DC and PS games cause a problem in doing the discount for some reason. If you can, avoid the DC and PS game purchases, IMO, they're not worth getting unless you want the game that badly. Otherwise, it'll delay time and give more time for the cashier to suspect something is wrong (and you don't want the manager being called to you now do you?)
Finally, the PS2, GC, and Xbox games. What you want are green tag games that are
*initially* $9.99 or $4.99 each. And you want to buy them in multiples of two (so that the coupon can work properly) When the cashier hits total, the price automatically goes down in half (bringing down each game to $4.99-$2.50). Then when the coupon is entered, the total goes to zero ($4.99 - $4.99 = 0, $2.50 - $2.50 = 0, etc.) But remember, the $10 deduction doesn't "carry" over for the whole total of the purchase.
Only in scope of those two games.
What's this scope I'm talking about? Glad you asked. Let's take 2 purchases for example. Devil May Cry (non-GH) at $7.98 and Maximo: Army of Zin at $7.98 each. You ring those up and use the coupon. Then by the protocol of the coupon in the computer system:
$7.48 - $5.00 = $2.48 for Devil May Cry and
$7.48 - $5.00 = $2.48 for Maximo: Army of Zin, giving them a
grand total of $4.96 for this purchase.
Now, let's use one of the same game with another. Devil May Cry (non-GH) at $7.98 and Soul Calibur 2 at $4.98. You ring those up and use the coupon again. Then by the protocol of the coupon in the system:
$7.48 - $6.16 = $1.82 for Devil May Cry and
$4.98-$3.84 = $0 for Soul Cailibur 2, giving them a grand total of
$2.96 for this purchase.
Now, did you notice how Devil May Cry's price AC were different? The
$2.48 vs. the
$1.82? Well, that's what I mean by the scope of the purchase. You have to find the right games that complement each other to maximize the TRU coupon. The coupon doesn't automatically take an
exact $5 off each game, but rather a distribution of the discount between the two games. How do I know this for sure? Because I bought Maximo: Army of Zin for $7.98 ($1.82 AC) and Soul Calibur 2 for $4.98 ($1.14 AC) giving me a total of 2.96 AC. Yet when I bought two Soul Calibur 2's, I got zero dollars AC for both for of them. There were other games that happened in this situation too.
I hope you guys see what I'm saying, because you'll end up paying more if you don't exactly know what you're doing. So don't ring up two games together that cost like $7.98 each because you'll pay more. Instead, find a game that costs $4.99 (or a $9.99 green tag game) and match it with each of that $7.98 game and you'll end up paying much less. One trick you can use is by stacking the games in the order you expect the cashier to ring them up. Because timing and order of the purchase really affect the coupon's outcome.
Er, I hope that covered and explained everything. Sorry if I wrote long, but I wanted everyone to know about the full power of the coupon
[/quote]
I don't mean to be rude, but from what I can see you still get your $10 total off no matter what as long as the two games add up to at least $10 otherwise they are free so you really don't save money by trying to "combine the perfect games together"[/quote]
Actually, he is right, at least somewhat. If you "bought" two $3 games, they would be free. If you then bought two $8 games, on a separate purchase, they would be $6. But, buy two $3 games and two $8 games and you pay $1 ($20 off). On my receipt (for 4 games), it looks like the system automatically pairs the games to equal $10 if it can. Since I didn't buy 20 games (like some of you pigs
) I don't know if it will give you the best deal if you buy large quantities.[/quote]
Actually, it doesn't matter. It says $10 off 2 games. It doesn't say $100 off 20 games.
If you buy 20 games that are $3.98, you'll wind up at zero, and only save $80.
If you buy 10 games for $4 and 10 for $5, you'll wind up at zero, and save $90.
If you buy 10 games for $6 and 10 games for $10, you'll pay $60 and save $100.
If you buy 20 games for $20, you'll pay $300 and save $100.
The only reason why it looks like you're getting a "good" deal is that if you're buying a bunch of games for less than $5 it screws with your "max" savings. However, that's not looking at it the right way. Your max discount is FREE AC.