CAG Arcade Stick Thread

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[quote name='Furashu']are there any other sites that have guides for building ur own stick other then slagcoin?

i just wanna see if there are other methods for building your own box first.

slagcoin has the idiot box, his first box, the slanted box, but maybe there are easier options? i wanna plan to build the box first this week, then get started next week.[/quote]


I've been wondering the same thing myself. SRK hasn't showed me anything else. Theres also arcadecontrols.com though (http://arcadecontrols.com/arcade.htm)
 
i know people suggested norrisarcade, but im trying to keep the cost of the stick under $100, and one of those boxes is like $60+shipping.

u can buy popular wood at lowes for like $10 or a used wooden shelf on craigslist for $5 and break it apart..
 
[quote name='Furashu']i know people suggested norrisarcade, but im trying to keep the cost of the stick under $100, and one of those boxes is like $60+shipping.

u can buy popular wood at lowes for like $10 or a used wooden shelf on craigslist for $5 and break it apart..[/QUOTE]

there can't be that many different ways to build a box out of wood can there?
I'd pick up a norris arcade box (if they were ever in stock). I don't think the price is unreasonable considering the cost of tools you'd need, unless you already have them
 
what do you guys think of my sanwa colored buttons scheme. is it fugly? or not bad..
custombuttons.jpg
 
[quote name='Milkyman']there can't be that many different ways to build a box out of wood can there?
I'd pick up a norris arcade box (if they were ever in stock). I don't think the price is unreasonable considering the cost of tools you'd need, unless you already have them[/quote]

true, yeah my dad has all the tools and glue :D

forgot most folks dont have that stuff.
 
[quote name='hyogen']also, Seimitsu PS-14-KN 30mm Pushbutton - can u put art under buttons?[/QUOTE]

Yep, look at this. It's really simple though I would suggest an X-acto knife for the cutting instead of a pocket knife or scissors.
 
Wood is cheap. But if you don't have any tools, the cost of making your own box for the first time will still be well over $150. All the Screws, Pliers, Wrench, Nuts, Bolts, Washers, Corner Brace, Hand Saw, Brush, Drill Bits, Glue, Tape, Clamps, Measuring Tool, Sandpaper, Screwdrivers, Rubber Feet, Power Tools, Paint, Primer, Clear Coat, Wax and more. You need to think a head. If you can obtain all those things for under "$60 + shipping" you have to tell me.

The basic parts will cost you $100. Joystick is $25, 6 30mm buttons ($3 each) is $18, 3 24mm buttons ($2.50 each) $7.50, system PCB is $20-$25, wire is $10, soldering gun is $10.

That's $95.50 just for the basics (not including shipping). I guess you can use a shoe box and then you have a stick for under $100.
 
[quote name='amusedtoe']Yep, look at this. It's really simple though I would suggest an X-acto knife for the cutting instead of a pocket knife or scissors.[/quote]

thanks. if i got the red ones of those buttons..would the button part have a reddish tint to it? or is the middle round part always clear? I am guessing that it's red but still transparent.
 
The middle's the same translucent color that the outer part is, only ones that are different that I've seen are like the PS-14-GN Colored Body with Clear Plunger.
 
[quote name='controlcommerce']Wood is cheap. But if you don't have any tools, the cost of making your own box for the first time will still be well over $150. All the Screws, Pliers, Wrench, Nuts, Bolts, Washers, Corner Brace, Hand Saw, Brush, Drill Bits, Glue, Tape, Clamps, Measuring Tool, Sandpaper, Screwdrivers, Rubber Feet, Power Tools, Paint, Primer, Clear Coat, Wax and more. You need to think a head. If you can obtain all those things for under "$60 + shipping" you have to tell me.

The basic parts will cost you $100. Joystick is $25, 6 30mm buttons ($3 each) is $18, 3 24mm buttons ($2.50 each) $7.50, system PCB is $20-$25, wire is $10, soldering gun is $10.

That's $95.50 just for the basics (not including shipping). I guess you can use a shoe box and then you have a stick for under $100.[/QUOTE]
Seriously, the NAS cases are quality. They are a steal at the price they sell them.
 
[quote name='hyogen']what do you guys think of my sanwa colored buttons scheme. is it fugly? or not bad..
custombuttons.jpg
[/QUOTE]

Would look great in a McDonalds.
 
elevenstrings e-mailed me this beautiful mod he did:

3310901088_82304a5f23_o.jpg


3310901224_4cc4e541b3_o.jpg


His friend used to be an animator for the Ren & Stimpy show, so he had him do the art...

neat!

THANKS elevenstrings!
 
Man that is nice art! It would be impossible to do any better.

My 2 SF4 stick mods will have original art too, so hopefully they are well received.
 
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[quote name='hyogen']just an update.. my first 2 fightsticks went for $120+ shipping, first 2 fightpads went for $80...lol

i have 4 more fightsticks and 3 more fightpads

flame me if you want, but these are harsh economic times in which the less fortunate have to take advantage of those who can pay $120 for a $70 stick...just because they can't wait -_-..... or $400 for a $150 stick ;)[/QUOTE]

Why don't you sell me a fightstick for cost plus shipping and all will be forgiven?:) Anyway, there are a lot of cool sticks in this thread, keep that art coming!
 
Anyone have experience top-mounting a flat plate? I'm going to buy wood tomorrow and need a way to mount the LS-33. I think I need to use a 3 layer design.. pretty much like this.. 1st layer 1/2" mdf, 2nd layer 1/8" board, top layer acrylic.
idiot_layers1.jpg


The thing is, the mounting plate is 1/16th of an inch thick. The distance from the plate to the bottom of the ball is just over an inch. If the 2nd layer is 0.125" and the lexan 0.93inches then I have some photo paper in there thats close to a quarter inch gone from the shaft. Is that enough to grab on to? Would a 1/16th" thick 2nd layer + acrylic be able to support the buttons? Do I have any other options?
 
Can anyone confirm/deny that the Seimitsu PS-14-KN will fit in the hole closest to the joystick without any modding? Seen lots of people using them but no one's really said if they had to grind the nut down at all. Figures that Akihabara Shop if out of the original PS-14-K in yellow now or I'd just order from them.
 
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Amusedtoe, yes, you will need to grind it down. A Dremel with grinding bit would be best, but I think some people have used sand paper.

Does anyone know of a method of attaching artwork to the SF4 SE stick that is higher-quality than lami-label? I'm not sure if MAME Marquees is going to work out since the SE panel is angled.
 
Hmm, maybe this can be my excuse to get one for all those projects I've always envisioned myself doing but will never actually bother to do... except if I have a Dremel I might! :lol:

Oh well I'm ordering and I'll figure something out. Still torn on the "white" PS-14-KN for the bumpers. Wish there was like a smoke colored one. Maybe I'll hold off on the buttons for the bumpers for the time being since those are supposed to be part of what's holding up orders. Maybe red ones would go with it since I seem to be using her red alt costume the most. Wish I could remember art theory a little better. Know it's two steps over from violet making it analogous but how will it look with the yellow.

For those who've done custom art on their HRAPs do you recommend peeling off the "art" or applying something like lamilabel over it?

Edit- Alright ordered the red, think they'll end up looking nice and if not guess I can always change them at some point.
 
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Picked up a PS3 Ryu fightpad last night from GS, but after reading about all the problems I think I am going to return it and put the money toward modding my SE stick. I may order 1 of those saturn knockoffs from ebay also.
Now to decide what color and what parts to order for my SE. This thread and SRK has been extremely informative and helpful, keep up the great post.
 
[quote name='heavyd853']Art germ kicks all kinds of ass.[/QUOTE]

No doubt, it just seems like that Chun Li image got spread around without the source being talked about
 
[quote name='eastx']Does anyone know of a method of attaching artwork to the SF4 SE stick that is higher-quality than lami-label? I'm not sure if MAME Marquees is going to work out since the SE panel is angled.[/QUOTE]Not sure if this is the type of thing you were talking about, but MameMarquees has a guide for applying their control panel overlays to a curved/angled surface here: http://www.mamemarquees.com/pub/
 
[quote name='PhrostByte']My TE has been delayed again. What is this shit? What a fucking debacle.[/QUOTE]

Welcome to the "Why the F did I pre-order if I'm still going to get the thing in April" Club.
(For the record, Amazon STILL hasn't replied to my Customer Service e-mails after nearly 2 weeks. Sure, I could call them, but at this point, they've pissed me off enough that I want to see how long it's going to take. Plus, it's not like I could just cancel my order anymore and get in on the HRAP3; they already screwed that up by not getting back to me before SF4 hit the shelves.)

Easily the worst online purchasing experience I've had to-date.
 
[quote name='coolsteel']No doubt, it just seems like that Chun Li image got spread around without the source being talked about[/quote]
I always hate when I can't find the source to something, they def deserve the credit.

figured if I found who did it there's likely a lot more awesome work to be found and voila! Thanks a lot, this one looks like a possible candidate for layout:
http://artgerm.deviantart.com/art/Samurai-Spirit-6-77998563
 
I believe that ChunLi image was featured in the Street Fighter Tribute Art Book. Really pretty. The art book is filled with good stickart and features the artist's name/website for more information below each picture
 
[quote name='nil']If you can find the art you want at a decent size at 300 dpi you can use a photoshop trick to resize it. Edit>Image Size, turn off resample and resize it to 110%. Do this several times until the art is larger than you need it to be. Next, turn on resample and resize to 200 dpi. Then place the art in the template and scale it down. That should do the trick. I could do it for you, but I won't have access to photoshop until Monday. I'm on vacation with Street Fighter.[/quote]
how does the 300 / 200 dpi thing work with respect to printing?

for whatever reason, the color profile on photoshop doesn't load with my monitor so i'm worried that it'll look different when i print it out. :O
 
[quote name='bjkrautk']Welcome to the "Why the F did I pre-order if I'm still going to get the thing in April" Club.
(For the record, Amazon STILL hasn't replied to my Customer Service e-mails after nearly 2 weeks. Sure, I could call them, but at this point, they've pissed me off enough that I want to see how long it's going to take. Plus, it's not like I could just cancel my order anymore and get in on the HRAP3; they already screwed that up by not getting back to me before SF4 hit the shelves.)

Easily the worst online purchasing experience I've had to-date.[/QUOTE]

So, I got tired of waiting and found an EX2 at a GameStop in DC for the mean time. I played about 1 hour so far. My Blanka did well. I still went undefeated but with other characters I was horrible. I tried to do qcf+p like 50 times before I just gave up.
 
Good news on the stick front for me! It turns out that one of the wires was just loose at the PCB contact point. In fact, when I played around with it a little, it slipped right off. So I just pushed it into a more secure position where it was DEFINITELY touching the PCB, and then my Right input registered perfectly.

Now all I gotta do is finish work and break in my NEW PLASMA TV, BABY!!!!1 (just got delivered mere hours ago) and I'll be ballin'!!!

fixed-1.jpg
 
Hey that looks pretty good. I didn't think it would look that when you showed off the art on your blog. I would find myself bashing on those yellow and black buttons accidentally though. You're fine with them?
 
[quote name='Jest']Hey that looks pretty good. I didn't think it would look that when you showed off the art on your blog. I would find myself bashing on those yellow and black buttons accidentally though. You're fine with them?[/QUOTE]Thanks! I don't anticipate much of a problem with the yellow button - with the angle that my thumb is usually at when resting on "short," I don't think I'll hit it accidentally. Also that yellow button was important so I could have a proper Run button for UMK3! Oh and the black button is just select/back, which doesn't do anything in most games. So even if I hit it accidentally, nothing would happen (except maybe accidentally reset my position in training mode, for a few games, which is no biggie).
 
So, i'm seriously considering building a stick. I have some wood, some acrylic, a pcb, some wires, and some other shit. My question for the experts is: Is the HAPP competition joystick decent? It's priced well. If it sucks, tell me which one to get.
 
[quote name='Dandeschain']So, i'm seriously considering building a stick. I have some wood, some acrylic, a pcb, some wires, and some other shit. My question for the experts is: Is the HAPP competition joystick decent? It's priced well. If it sucks, tell me which one to get.[/QUOTE]I've heard it said that the iL eurostick is preferable to the Happ stick. They are basically the same stick but apparently Happ's manufacturing quality has gone down in recent years. I'm no expert but that's what I've heard.

Then of course if you're not committed to an American style-stick, you can tune into the endless Sanwa vs. Semitsu debate. Both of those manufacturers make reputable Japanese-style sticks.
 
Already sent a few PMs out, but just incase someone else might know, does anyone have any info about the Death Smile stick coming out this April from Hori. All I have read so far is that they are using a Sanwa stick in it, anyone read anything else about this one?
 
Got my Sanwa buttons and balltop today, threw them in my HRAP EX. It's pimped out now. I tried to take a picture, but it's too dark in my house, plus my camera sucks. I'll snag a pic later when I'm in a brighter place.
 
So what's a good 360 Arcade Stick that I can buy that doesn't cost $150? Or at least one I could easily modify to make good (with parts names, please).

I have no faith that MadCatz will try and help me fix my broken fightpad.
 
[quote name='hankmecrankme']Got my Sanwa buttons and balltop today, threw them in my HRAP EX. It's pimped out now. I tried to take a picture, but it's too dark in my house, plus my camera sucks. I'll snag a pic later when I'm in a brighter place.[/QUOTE]

You skipped your electricity bill for the month to pay for those buttons?
 
[quote name='Chacrana']You skipped your electricity bill for the month to pay for those buttons?[/QUOTE]

What electricity bill? I'm living out in the streets. It's raining on my cardboard box right now/ :cry:

Actually, my house is just really dark. It's mood lighting 24/7 so when the chicas come over, we can get down to business.
 
Got my Rose template printed out tonight. Came out pretty good no issues with print or lami-label quality, other then making the really dark areas look a little lighter but that's typical with laminating. Had to go to two different stores though since the one had the better printer, Xerox 252, but was out of lami-label and the other had a crappy printer but the lami-label in stock. Two prints, so when I screw the first up, only ran me about $7-8 all told. Gonna install my new hard drive in my computer so that can be formatting while I work on this then I'll get some pics up.

Edit- Hate hard drives, never work right. :bomb: Recognized in the bios and through Seagates diagnostic software but not in Windows.

Edit- Wow that's awful having to use their software to get it up and running first time. Oh well, time to start working on the stick.

Man those quick disconnects are not easy to get off and I am horrible at cutting apparently. If this was kindergarten I'd be getting held back.
 
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